My Luxor by Bernard M. Adams
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  • Avenue of Sphinx Update
  • Valley Mountains are in Lights
  • Colossi of Thoth
16th August 2010


Avenue of Sphinx Update


Today is 45c (113f) but so as not to stay indoors, I took my bicycle and rode the full length of the Avenue of Sphinx from the Emilio Hotel to Karnak.

It is not until you get past the Emilio hotel that you realise the full extent of this huge project.  Between the Emilio and Karnak there is a very impressive part that has very nicely built walls on each side and the stone pathway through the middle of the Sphinxes is perfect.  There are however, many roads that still cross this avenue and one can only thinks that they will have to build bridges across if they really do want the avenue to be a complete thorough way.

I have to say, that for me, there was more sadness in seeing what has been pulled down and destroyed than the excitement of exposing the avenue.  I rode through some of Karnak that I doubt many visiting people ever see. Right the side of the avenue, people are living their lives in the traditional way they have done for many a year.  The little tiny streets with a small shop here and there are a delight, the people being very friendly. All this is possibly being taken away from them.

When Luxor is totally touristically re-built, what will be left? Where will the people be? The local life? Traditional styles and ways? The atmosphere? LUXOR? You will have to look in books to know what it once looked like.

My friends, you still have the chance to see what's left of Luxor's splendour before it is lost forever. Houses that I passed last Christmas have all been pulled down, people gone. Do we really want a Luxor open-air museum?

I really had a lovely time cycling the sides of the avenue, weaving in and out of the tiny streets of old Karnak, seeing the locals, the shops going about their business and of course, its Ramadan. The streets are redecorated with flags and banners and you can feel the general attitude of the locals, its good.

I quite like the idea of going back there in the evening after their Ramadan day of fasting and when the village cafes are once again open and the village comes back to life. So, so nice.  They have nothing, but they have everything! Mmmm, I'm thinking of Egyptian tea.
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